A Pilgrimage to Netaji Shrine

An article published in Tribune, Ambala on Feb 13, 1955

By Surendra Nath Gupta

“Is Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose alive or dead?”—This is a question which still causes suspense and doubt and uncertainty in the minds of the people in India. Although nearly 10 years have passed since the great son of India vanished from the worldly stage, yet none in the country is willing to pass a final judgment over his fate.

However, an aging, tall Japanese sitting in a rather quiet and little known suburban corner of this great metropolitan city has the answer to this question which has been battling the minds of the Indians for such a long time. This man is the high priest of Renkojo Temple which is better known today as ‘Netaji Shrine’. Rev. Kyoel Mochizuki, as the Head Priest is named, has a definite proof in support of his answer. And his answer is “Netaji is no more in this world.”

A few days ago, I made a pilgrimage to this temple. It took me more that 45 minutes by train and by bus to reach the vicinity of the temple which is located in Koenji in the Suginami Ward of the Tokyo metropolitan area. The locality is so quiet and rather out of the way that it was rather hard to locate the exact place. But when finally I did reach the shrine, I was impressed by the peace that dominated the atmosphere there. Outside the gate is a sign post on which is inscribed in the Japanese language the fact that Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose’s ashes are enshrined there. The temple occupies a pretty large area consisting of the main altar hall and a small detached residential quarter for the high priest and his family. It is a Buddhist temple following the Nichiren Sect.

Although I had gone there without any prior information or appointment ready to take a chance in case the priest was busy or absent, yet the head priest readily agreed to spare some time to talk to me and also to conduct me through the main temple hall where the ashes are enshrined.

It was rather an emotional and impressive experience for me to watch Rev. Mochizuki perform all the necessary religious rituals like burning incense and chanting ‘mantras’ before taking out the urn from a locked closet behind the main altar. Just before the urn was placed a photograph of Netaji in his familiar General’s uniform with a fresh flower wreath placed around it.

As we stood there for some time in silent reverence and admiration, I broke the silence by asking the priest, through a young University student named Junko Shiral, who had accompanied me to act as an interpreter, about the whole story of the ashes’ journey to his temple.

Rev. Mochizuki had never personally known Netaji during his lifetime, although like all Japanese during the war, he had often heard and read about him. According to his information Netaji was taking off from Taipei airport in Formosa be either Tokyo or Peiping. Following the surrender of Japan it was naturally unsafe to stay there. Just as the plane was getting airborne, it caught fire and burst into flames. While a fellow passenger was thrown out and was thus saved after severe burns, Netaji’s body was sprayed all over with petrol and the result was fatal. When the ashes were brought to Japan, the Japanese government itself was too confused to know what to do about it. Consequently, it decided to entrust the ashes to some temple for safe custody. A number of priests refused to accept the urn fearing reprisals from the occupation authorities. However, at that time Rev. Mochizuki agreed to take it and enshrine it in his temple. And ever since he has been keeping it with due solemnity and reverence.

The Government of India first contacted him in May 1950 through Shri. S.K. Chetur. Ever since then many persons and officials of the Indian Embassy in Tokyo have visited the place. They have asked him to keep the remains with him in the temple in trust for the Govt. of India till they take them back to India. It was understood that the Government of India were reluctant to do so just now as they were afraid the people at home would not really believe that the ashes were those of Netaji. It appears that they are waiting for some suitable atmosphere to prevail in the country when the people would shed all doubts about the fate of Netaji. They feel that would be the most appropriate moment for taking them back to India.

However, Rev. Mochizuki sincerely wishes that a suitable memorial was built where the ashes could be enshrined. He was at loss to understand why the Indian people did not show much interest in getting them back and enshrining them in a place of honour in the country.

He even wished to build a suitable memorial himself in Japan, but was handicapped for lack of money. Would the Indian people help him in case he launched upon such a venture? That was a question he asked me.

The last mortal remains of that great son of India are lying in that temple at 130, 2-Chome Koenji, Suginami-ku, in Tokyo. It is time that the people of India put a stop to all controversy and work for getting the ashes back and enshrining them in a place worthy of that great martyr!